Category Archives: Bombay

Our Own World Cup

 

This was supposed to be one of the thousand post-world cup blog posts but then by the time I realized the din has subsided and decided to write, the cauldron was already empty. Everything that needs to be said has already been said by people far more knowledgeable and in much more articulate write-ups. And everything that need not be said has also been done. What’s left? Maybe some good old cricket nostalgia from Bombay.

We had our own World Cup. I am quite obviously exaggerating, but we had a one day tournament(not an ODI tournament, the whole tournament itself lasts only a day!), with all the officers quarters(apartments) of my dad’s bank in Bombay participating in what could be called T10 matches. The defending champions usually get a bye and go straight into the semi-finals. The others played their draws and we had about eight teams – Sydney, Uttara, Decor, Karthik, Apna Ghar, Manish Nagar, Mulund and Ghatkopar!

Uttara was the team I belonged to and we had our nets at the Shastri Nagar corner park. At times when I did not make it to the playing eleven(which was most times!) the only joy was from keeping the cricket bats in my house. Nets were at sharp 7 AM and we would be at the building lobby at 6.45. It wasn’t always the traditional nets but more like playing 4-5 overs matches among the seven or eight of us who turn up. The premier bowlers for the team were M and V. The practice always started with them taking their run ups and me struggling to read their yorkers. P used to get a look-in with his spin and more often than not was successful in getting ahead of me in the selection. There was a funny incident with me throwing the ball, hitting P’s face and S uncle admonishing me for almost injuring his Ravichander Ashwin level of mythical figure that was P. I won’t forget the unbridled chutzpah with which P walked away from me that morning. S uncle was our captain.

S “uncle”! You did not think this was a kids/youngsters event, did you? This was basically for the potbellied uncles and middle aged officers of the bank. Though I just referred to it as our very own World Cup, it had rules more on the IPL mold. Each team was allowed only four kids/youngsters/sons of officers. The rest were all supposed to be officers. In other words, bank employees. So you can imagine the selection woes, yes? Yes. A set of undoubtedly unfit men with paunches resembling the laughing Buddhas in their mantelpieces mull over the selection of four out of seven or eight 14-24 year olds. Sounds familiar? Well of course. M and V select themselves for their all round capabilities. C gets in with his sheer pace and R plays if he is not busy with exams. P and I took care of the 12th man duties for the most part unless someone was injured.

It won’t be a stretch to call the Bhavans College ground our home. Maybe not just for our team but for all the five or six teams around the Lokhandwala area. It turns into a lazy Sunday getaway for the families and since it’s relatively more accessible, we get a bigger attendance. There was one other ground in Juhu, somewhere behind the ISKCON-Chandan cinemas area, and one more in Mulund. The Mulund team were like the 1996 Sri Lankan team. Frankly, I did not even know that the bank had an officers quarters in that part of Bombay. We all thought they were the minnows we never had and the next minute, they had won the tournament. They had a father son duo that pretty much played like how Jayasuriya and Aravinda De Silva did for their 1996 team. Total jolt. Inspired by Mulund, another supposedly-nonexistent-until-then team of Goregaon came into the picture. Goregaon were still the trademark minnows. They hardly could find eleven players and most of the kids in their building were eight year olds[sic]. So they turned to subterfuge. Imagine if Kevin O’Brien was actually some rugby player from England? They located this burly young man from their neighborhood and got him into the team as the pinch hitter, their only saving grace. He was brought into the team under the pretext of being Mr. Kale’s eldest son. Of course, Mr. Kale had only a tiny son and a daughter. The mystifying aspect of a lesser known Goregaon quarters only contributed too well to this deceit. The only problem was making sure Mr. Kale nods with reassurance if someone had to stop him and remark,” Abeyaar Kale, tere bete ne toh Wagmare ke over mein kya shandaar chakka maara“, and our Kale had a heart big enough to do that.

The event had its own mythical figures and ego clashes. The Dadar branch chief manager’s son was supposedly the emerging Shoaib Akhtar of Andheri. Well, at least the West. He was rattling stumps at every park and he was not yet our friend. Then there was the ego clash with Sydney. You don’t lose to Sydney. Sydney was the quarters exclusively for chief managers, executives and everyone else above that scale with their sons and daughters married off and living elsewhere. That means they are all people in their  late 40s or early 50s. You don’t like to lose, with a relatively younger team, to a team full of senior citizens. But that fateful day did come. It even turned out to be the finals. You wouldn’t hear the end of it even five editions later.

Much like the 1996 semi-finals against Sri Lanka. Mostly like the finals of 2003 against Australia. On that day, the younger brigade of Team Uttara flocked at my place. V left after the first innings. C left after Sachin got out. I resigned to study for my board exams at around the halfway mark of the Indian innings. On the night of April 2nd 2011, in a moment of laboriously searched for silence, I am sure their hearts harked back to that day even if just for a second. Even if today they exist only on my Facebook friends list and not on the floor above.

(On the subject of what this win meant, do read @cornerd‘s post here)

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Microcosm

It begins with the rains. The rains that are so integral to and synonymous with Bombay. It’s several emotions at the same time with the sky opening up, falling down, shedding tears but also cleansing the souls and washing away the sins. The rains that people of Bombay miss and dread at the same time, revel in and complain at the same time. It is this dichotomy in lives and characters and people that is presented beautifully in Kiran Rao’s Dhobi Ghat.

Raju was the dhobi who used to visit our apartment in Andheri, which is far far away from the universally familiar localities in the stories of Dhobi Ghat – Mahalaxmi, the town areas, Colaba, Mohammad Ali Road etc (In the book I am reading – Saadat Hasan Manto’s Stars From Another Sky, he refers to Malad as the “village” outside Bombay! That’s around 1940s I guess). Raju used to visit our building around 9 PM. And often, he used to finish collecting/distributing the clothes and then sit on our couch and talk about everything from politics, cricket, the local areas, Andheri and occasionally even his life and family. When I saw Munna being lectured by that lady in her house, it reminded me of Raju. It reminded me of that unspoken liberty, comfort and space for each other that develops between two people no matter which social strata of society they come from. A limited one  of course. That is something very Bombay. You see that between Munna and Shai, Munna and Arun, Yasmin and Arun. It’s captured with accurate precision in a seemingly throwaway moment, when Shai runs into Munna and his friends at a cinema theater. If you’ve lived in Bombay, you experience it all the time.

The remarkable feature of Dhobi Ghat is that it’s not just a check list of things that define Bombay. You can probably single out at least one film every year for that. Yes, Kiran Rao does check a few things off like the Ganpati Visarjan, Ramazan time food, Chowpatty, the Irani chai-bun maska at cafes etc. But she goes a bit further by recording those existential themes too. Nobody knows who Yasmin is. Yasmin might not even be from the real world. We see a lot of Bombay through her eyes, from different angles as an outsider. Arun derives his creative juice from her. This is another trait that won’t go amiss in that city. No matter the size and population of the city or the feeling of loneliness that it engulfs you in, you’ll always find yourself in a microcosm. No matter your apathy or interest in gossip or voyeuristic longings, stories of people around you manage to fall in your way, more often than not unconsciously. It’s to Kiran Rao’s credit that she treads this path subtly with a character that could be anyone’s imaginary friend.

Sidvee here articulates on Bombay and Dhobi Ghat in ways only he can. Do read.

I think the video above is making its second appearance in this blog. Forget the cliched song and instead, focus on the images. If you notice carefully, you’ll see the same set people in some of the photographs. Nothing defines Bombay better than that. And in films of recent times , nothing defines Bombay better than Dhobi Ghat.

 

 

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Few Observations from “The City”

The first thing I noticed about Bombay, on that first day, was the smell of the different air. I could smell it before I saw or heard anything of India, even as I walked along the umbilical corridor that connected the plane to the airport. I was excited and delighted by it, in that First Bombay minute, escaped from prison and new to the wide world, but I didn’t and couldn’t recognise it. I know now that it’s the sweet, sweating smell of hope, which is the opposite of hate; and it’s the sour, stifled smell of greed, which is the opposite of love. It’s the smell of gods, demons, empires, and civilisations in resurrection and decay. It’s the blue skin-smell of the sea, no matter where you are in the Island City, and the blood-metal smell of machines. It smells of the stir and sleep and waste of sixty million animals, more than half of them humans and rats. It smells of heartbreak, and the struggle to live, and of the crucial failures and loves that produce our courage. It smells of ten thousand restaurants, five thousand temples, shrines, churches, and mosques, and of a hundred bazaars devoted exclusively to perfumes, spices, incense, and freshly cut flowers. Karla once called it the worst good smell in the world, and she was right, of course, in that way she had of being right about things. But whenever I return to Bombay, now, it’s my first sense of the city-that smell, above all things-that welcomes me and tells me I’ve come home.*

  • The above is true.
  • Some of the best and closest friends live there and it’s as good as a second home. Even a loss in touch doesn’t dampen the enthusiasm or the chemistry. The now mandatory trip is totally worth it.
  • People show their wealth. Be it their dress sense, the way they walk  and talk, what they do, what they don’t do, they sure show a lot of wealth. And in a very nice aesthetic non-showoff-y way. And I believe it is a good thing. That is something the city of Madras is not so great in. There are loads and loads of wealthy people in Madras but they all like to be locked up somewhere.
  • And they sure know how to dress. And that is a something I would quite love in anyone.
  • How much ever wealth you might possess, Rs 250-450 for a movie ticket is not justified. Sathyam, I love you (whether this love has lifetime guarantee depends entirely on you).
  • Crazy couples still make out inside auto rickshaws. Any time of the day.
  • They know how to build malls. The malls in Bombay kick the ass of the ones I’ve been to in NJ or Raleigh. And what are we in Madras stuck with? Spencers and City Center? Have to visit that new Ampa Skywalk and see if anything has changed!
  • The kids that came up to between my knees and hips in 1999 go to college now. They talk about visiting Hard Rock Cafe, hookah and sex. And I tell people I am only 24? Bah!
  • Madras-avdhu, Bangalore-avdhu. Bombay is Bombay.

*That’s from Shantaram – Gregory David Roberts.

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